Neil had been very clear about what we were about to face in the coming days. This was not going to be a walk in the park. The following days were going to be tough, cold, stressful and physically very demanding.
Sitting down to a hearty breakfast and the animated chatter of our Irish team mates, I try to push my nerves and apprehension to a back burner. Not very successful is my attempt as they affect my appetite. My stomach has decided to close itself up making the digestion of a fresh croissant as difficult as trying to chew a stone, but I need the energy and I make an effort to have a good breakfast.
Shortly after breakfast Miles and Jean Marc arrive at the chalet. They will be assisting Neil in guiding this trip. Miles is American from Seattle and Jean Marc is French from the Ardeche region. As instructed in the previous night’s briefing we all lay out our equipment for checking.
Jean Marc comes in to check our equipment ensuring that our equipment is adequate for the coming adventure. After the inspection we go downstairs to collect our helmets, harnesses, crampons and ice axes. Boots will be hired from a shop down in Les Houches.
Neil explains that today will be an easy day with a short three hour trek to the Albert Premier Hut, which at approximately 2,300m will be our refuge for the night. After buying food and last minute equipment from Chamonix we head off to the Telecabine du Tour to catch the cable car which will take us to the start of the trek.
Prior to setting off on the cable car, Neil, Miles and Jean Marc take a quick look at our equipment. The weather forecast is not good – rain is predicted. It’s not a matter of if but when it will start pouring. Waterproofs on we head towards the Telecabine. A short ride up to higher altitudes takes us to the start of the trek. The weather is deteriorating fast and we can barely see the chairs in front of us.
The trek takes us about three hours and as Neil explained was a straight forward one taking us through a narrow path on the mountain side. The downpour increases as we progress along the rocky track but does not deter us from stopping occasionally to take a photo of our surroundings. Although the trek was moderate with an average gradient, I feel my calf muscles working hard. I am thankful for the hours spent at the gym lifting weights and working the step machine. Although I am not feeling cold, the cold climate makes it difficult for my muscles to warm up.
John, one of the Brits, takes a very fast pace but we do not attempt to catch up with him. This was not a race after all. Keeping Andy’s words “keep breathing from your mouth” in my head I just did so filling my lungs with the air which became thinner as we reached higher altitudes. As the Tanzanians always used to warn us when climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro the pace has to be pole pole (Swahili for slowly slowly). In an attempt to better acclamatise ourselves the forthcoming days would be spent trekking up higher altitudes but evenings would be spent at lower altitudes.
As we slowly made our way up, Conrad’s feet started to be plagued by blisters. Not good to have those on the very first day. The misery on his face was so evident as we climbed the last few metres to the Albert Premier hut, which would give us shelter from the storm that was fast approaching us.
The Albert Premier hut is an overcrowded and primitive hut. Although the toilets have running water, they are dirty, mainly due to the fact that there are only three loos to serve approximately hundred climbers at a time.
As soon as we change our boots for slippers, which are provided in every hut, we are shown to our dormitory. Two rows of bunk beds, housing approximately twenty crammed climbers are found in each of the five dormitories. We are provided with a pillow and duvet which at initial glance does not convince me that it will provide me with the warmth I require. I lay out my belongings on my duvet, a sign to others that this bed is taken. Conrad is sitting on the next bed, carefully nursing and medicating his blisters some of which are quite nasty. Hopefully the blister packs that we bought will alleviate some of the misery.
Our turn for dinner is booked for 7pm. There are two sittings in order to feed all the climbers. Our group is settled in the far end of the room. Squeezed on benches, just as if we were like a can of sardines, it is impossible to maneuver. A friendly member of the kitchen staff shortly turns up with two large pots of hot pumpkin soup which is served with pieces of bread and cheese. We do not know what is going to be served after this so I decide to take two helpings just in case the second course is not as appetising. The wind outside is becoming stronger and the crowded room provides a welcome warmth.
Soup quickly finishes and shortly after we are served with a plate of bolognaise pasta. The sauce is not too bad but the pasta is far from al dente, but actually quite rubbery. Under normal circumstances I would not have eaten it but we need carbohydrates to provide us with energy to attempt the climb in the next day. However I draw a line when bowls of rice pudding are shoved onto our table. Neil is encouraged by Alice to have some which he does but abandons his spoon in the bowl, deciding to leave his portion relatively untouched, after the first morsel. When all the plates are taken away, the spoon is removed and I have a strong suspicion that this was not the last that we saw of this rice pudding!
After dinner, we all huddle together on a table and play cards. The Irish group teaches us the game of 45, which is a complicated game involving manipulation and guesswork. Conrad, Neil and I are beginners so each of us is ‘assigned’ to someone to help us play. Marie takes me under her wing and we spend the next hour playing this game which through beginner’s luck and her assistance I win. Mary, an Irish university lecturer decides to read our fortune through cards. Whilst normally I would not undertake such an offer, she clearly explains that it is just a bit of harmless fun which should not be taken seriously.
My cards are quite interesting – they show that I am full of adventure and seek adventurous challenges, haven’t been too lucky in love and that there is a blonde alpha male somewhere in my life. Naturally all eyes were focused on Conrad because he is clearly not blonde but the fun of this card exercise was a welcome distraction from the thoughts that were going through our minds.
Prior to settling down for the night, Neil gives us a quick briefing - breakfast tomorrow will be at 5am and we leave the hut at 6am sharp - we cannot delay as we need to try to get as much good weather as possible.
Bedtime is at 9pm. It’s very dark outside and a blustery wind is blowing outside. The duvet, as predicted does not offer the warmth I need so I resort to wearing my thermals and warm fleece. Thankfully I drift into welcome sleep after a few minutes, the warmth generated by all the bodies in the room enveloping me into sweet slumber.
